Throughout history, women have been associated with being great cooks, leading the charge in the kitchen. However, when it comes to restaurants, contrary to the popular narrative that women dominate this space, men tend to reign. According to Forbes, fewer than 21% of head chefs in the United States are female, and fewer than 7% of restaurants are run by women. Yet, as the culture and the climate in the food industry continues to change, more women are stepping into the role of head chef or owner, and Charleston Women is ready to celebrate with them. We are overjoyed to introduce three women leading kitchens in the Lowcountry, blazing the way in their fields in one of the hottest culinary cities in the nation. These women are talented chefs who also create mentorship opportunities for others entering the world of hospitality.
Heather Hutton, Edmund’s Oast Pastry Chef
Hutton began her pasty career after graduating from Johnson & Wales University in 2007 with a few stops in casual and fine dining before landing at Edmund’s Oast. She reported that now, she is working in the most female-influenced work environment yet as a pastry chef. Hutton has seen how working with supportive females from the top down in organizations is crucial to the continued development of women in the industry. When developing a dessert, she looks to bring complexity to her dishes, providing a hint of something new and original to each dessert.
The dish Hutton is most proud of is “The Sigh of Lima.” It is based on a Peruvian dessert that combines dulce de leche-like custard with toasted port meringue. Hutton added carrot cake and butterscotch to create a marriage of American and Peruvian cuisines.
Hutton said, “As I’ve grown, kitchen culture is also changing. I know that these are my greatest skills to offer in the kitchen. Being unapologetically ‘you’ within your environment is strength, inspiration and even validation for others. I am heavily aware that we are always creating the environment for the next generation.”
While Hutton is constantly working on dishes for the restaurant and creating banquet events, she is always looking for creative projects. She is participating at this year’s March of Dimes Gala to earn money for at-risk babies. In addition, she has dessert collaborations with Tasty Gee’s, Swank Desserts and Baguette Magic within the coming months.
Janice Nguyen Hudgins, Little Miss Ha
Janice Nguyen Hudgins grew up making egg rolls alongside her mother, Thu-Ha Nguyen, better known as Miss Ha. The idea of Little Miss Ha started as a catering business, moving to the guest kitchen at the previous space known as “the workshop” on Upper King Street. It has now landed as a restaurant in Mount Pleasant. Hudgins strives to bring traditional Vietnamese food to homes all around the Lowcountry.
“I’m very grateful to be a woman in my field today,” remarked Hudgins. “Since starting in 2016, I’ve been very blessed to have great support by my fellow colleagues and mentors in the industry. It’s wonderful seeing so many emerging women in this business! There have been so many women before me that I owe tremendous gratitude for paving the way. Rose Nguyen Durden (Mama Rose), former executive chef of Carolina’s and My Tho in the early 2000’s, in particular. I remember in my early 20s seeing a restaurant publication that had about 50 chefs on the cover, and Mama Rose was one of the only females on the cover.”
The future looks bright for Little Miss Ha. Hudgins plans to continue to offer fresh Vietnamese cuisine inspired by her heritage at her Mount Pleasant restaurant, along with cooking classes. She wants to continue to push to the next level with pop-up collaborations involving other local chefs, in addition to expanding catering and take-home meals.
Vietnamese chicken pho (pho ga, pronounced “fuh”) is a traditional Vietnamese noodle dish that Hudgins grew up eating, and she has agreed to share the secret to the delicious taste with Charleston Women. It is probably the most recognizable Vietnamese dish, and it comes in several different preparations. Every Vietnamese household has their own version of the perfect pho, and each will claim that their version is the best. Hudgins’ was handed down from her mother. And yes, she does think her family’s version is the best!
Ingredients:
6 quarts water
1 whole organic chicken
1 medium onion, peeled but kept whole
1 piece fresh unpeeled ginger root
5-star anise
1 teaspoon black peppercorn
¼ cup quality fish sauce (may need more to taste)
1 cheese cloth (large enough to hold herbs)
Kosher salt
Sugar
16 ounces fresh rice stick noodles
Garnish:
½ cup cilantro, chopped
2 scallions, chopped
1 lime, cut into wedges
Fresh black pepper
Hoisin sauce
Hot chili sauce (sriracha)
Beansprouts, cilantro, Thai basil (optional)
Pickled onion:
– ½ small onion, thinly sliced
– ½ cup white distilled vinegar
– ½ teaspoon sugar
– Black pepper
Directions:
Roast onion and ginger root at 400 degrees for 20-30 minutes, until tender. Fill a large stock pot with cold water. Rinse, and pat dry a whole chicken. Split the chicken in half from top to bottom. Put chicken in pot with neckbone. Add fish sauce, half a tablespoon of sugar and half a teaspoon of kosher salt. Bring to a boil. Once boiling, bring temperature down to simmer. You will see some white/grey foam come to the top of the water. Keep skimming off foam until the broth is clear.
Toast the anise and peppercorns in a dry pan to release the flavors, about 5-7 minutes on medium heat. Place in cheesecloth and tie it into a bag. Place the herb bag into broth. Slightly bruise the onion and ginger root by smashing it with a pestle. Place onion and ginger in broth. Let broth simmer for 25 minutes or until chicken is cooked. Broth will reduce a bit. Add hot water to keep the water level. Once chicken is cooked, remove from broth, and place in a large bowl to cool.
Taste the broth to adjust the flavors (Hudgins usually adds a half tablespoon of fish sauce, a pinch of salt and a pinch of sugar). Once chicken cools, remove skin and shred chicken. Remove the herb bag from the broth. Cook pho noodles according to the package.
To make the pickled onions, combine vinegar and sugar. Grind fresh black pepper to taste. Add onions to vinegar mixture. Set aside.
To assemble, place a handful of noodles in a bowl, then add chicken and broth — enough to completely cover noodles. Add fresh cracked pepper and cilantro/ scallion garnish. Serve with a lime wedge and pickled onions on the side.
Samantha Kramer, Chile Dulce and Baguette Magic
Born and raised in Charleston, Samantha Kramer returned post-college and worked in several beloved local restaurants. In 2018, she and her now-husband, whom she met in the kitchen, opened popup restaurant Matzo y Masa. The duo served a non-traditional blend of their Jewish and Mexican heritage.
In November of 2019, Kramer and her sister took over the James Island bakery, Baguette Magic. Kramer brought her passion for local and fresh ingredients to the little shop, adding a fresh take to the menu. Baguette Magic, now with two locations, has become a local favorite with a cult following.
Kramer says of women in the restaurant business, “I have found that women in commercial kitchens are more welcoming and supportive of each other than in many other industries. Restaurants are very difficult businesses, and so many of my female peers have been instrumental in my own success.”
Kramer enjoys focusing on business operations at Baguette Magic and growing her hot sauce company, Chile Dulce. She hopes to continue to support other female entrepreneurs in the food and beverage community and recently spoke at FAB, an educational workshop created for women in hospitality. She also suggests you try her fiery take on tuna salad!
Ingredients:
1 12-ounce can of tuna
2 tablespoons minced pickled red onions
1 tablespoon rough chopped dill
¼ cup mayonnaise
½ tablespoon black pepper
½ tablespoon salt
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
2 teaspoons Chile Dulce Thai Chili White Wine or Habanero Pear Hot Sauce
Directions:
Combine all ingredients into a large mixing bowl. Fold in, leaving larger flakes of tuna. Taste for seasoning.
By Barbara Skidmore
